One of the big benefits of being a member of the Lone Star Region is the technical advice available from other members.  Stan Wenger, past president, DE instructor, and PCA Club Racer, is just one of the technically savvy Porsche drivers, whose experience is eagerly sought by other club members – even it its just about what not to do when performing some "simple" task like changing your transmission oil.  Read on….

Hints on Changing Transmission Oil (NOT)!

or: “Stanley meets Murphy!”

 

 



Stan Wenger April 22, 2002

Drivers Ed event soon.  Time to change brake pads and flush brake fluid, to change engine oil, and to mount those new Toyo’s I ordered from Dale that are stacked in my garage. Hey, why don’t I change the transmission oil while I am at it?  It has been quite a long time. It cannot be THAT hard to do! Go buy 4 quarts of heavy-duty synthetic gear oil.  What a PLAN!

It is Saturday, one week ahead of time, and I’m feeling good. Got the all the parts and supplies I need. Jack up the ‘ole 930 and perch it on 4 jack-stands in the garage. Take the wheels off and deliver, along with new Toyo’s, to my buddy at tire store for mounting and balancing.  Saturday is brake job and tire work. Sunday is oil change day. That’s my plan.

Now there are 2 things that should have told me on Saturday that on Sunday I was going to be visited by Murphy. You know him – the guy who invented Murphy’s Law: If anything can go wrong, it will. First was the call from the tire store – seems the new front tires I took them to mount were 15”, which did not match my front wheels, which, like the rear wheels and tires, were 16”. Murphy had visited Toyo sometime after Dale and I talked and I had not noticed! (Dale has a replacement pair speeding this way.) This was a warning, but I missed it. Then there was this really good wine I liked when we had some friends over for dinner Saturday evening. And scrubbing that grease ring out of the bathtub REALLY works up a thirst!

Sunday arrives and I jump out of bed early (NOT) to go to work. Here are my hints for changing transmission oil:

Step 1: Crawling WAY under an old car and doing work causes greasy dirt to fall on your face and shirt (or floor, which tends to end up on the back of your shirt, shorts and legs).

Step 2: Crawling WAY under a car so you can watch as you add oil above your head causes oil to drip on your face and shirt (or floor, which tends to end up on the back of your shirt, shorts and legs).

Step 3: Do NOT wear shorts to a party if you have failed to wash off your legs in the shower. 

Step 4: Do not open the oil DRAIN plug on the bottom of the tranny before you have ascertained that you have the tools and where-with-all to open up the oil FILL plug on the SIDE of the transmission. Don’t ask me how I know this, but pushing oil uphill into an open hole is NOT practical, plus, see # 1, 2, &3 above.

Step 5: Do NOT assume there is actually room to fill the tranny thru the side hole with just the tiny little spout that comes with the tranny oil (see # 1,2, & 3 above).

Step 6: Make sure that the tube you rig on the oil bottle to reach the hole in the side of the tranny is well secured, otherwise it can (and will) detach while in use. Refer to #1,2, & 3 above.

Step 7: You know that plastic cap the size of a quarter on the end of the tube from the oil bottle? Well, do NOT remove it toooo closely to the fill hole in the side of the tranny, which is also the size of a quarter. (You just think it popped off into the oil pan nearby.)

Step 8: You can squeeze on the oil bottle harder if you reach around the rear axle area. However, REMEMBER increased pressure on the bottle tends to blow off the tube you failed to secure for this new, higher pressure. (See # 2 & 3 above)

Step 9: If you have had a CV Joint Boot fail in the past, they spray this really yucky grease all over the adjacent area. You will find this on your arm after reaching around the rear axle area as recommended above. HINT: This grease ain’t coming out of your clothes – EVER! Don’t ask me how I know this, but it DOES leave a ring in the washer.

Step 10: You know the tranny is full of oil when it starts to come back out of the fill hole. See # 2 & 3 above.

Step 11: It is wise to check and see if that little plastic cap actually fell into the oil drain pan (or on the floor nearby) BEFORE you fill the tranny with 4 quarts of oil. Murphy’s law says it may have gone into the oil fill hole – and sure enough, IT DID!

Step 12: Wonder what a plastic cap could do to a transmission, to the shift forks and sliders and ball bearings? Me too. Figuring out that Mr. Murphy would surely come to visit me AGAIN, I decide to try and find that cap.

Step 13: Drain out brand new tranny oil. NO CAP appears – hey, Murphy is still here, what did you expect! Reach into oil drain hole – only diff gear can be felt. Oil spills out. Reach into oil fill hole. No cap but oil spills out. (see # 2 & 3 above)

Step 14: Decide to remove an access cover plate – 4 bolts, about 2” x 3” in size – on bottom of tranny. Hint – access plate removal will quickly disclose that not ALL of the oil has drained from the oil drain hole. (see # 2 & 3 above)

Step 15: Related: Q. Where does one find a Porsche inspection plate gasket on a Sunday afternoon? A: One doesn’t.

Step 16: Get mirrors and flashlight and bend so many ways that Houdini would be proud. Lo and behold, there is the plastic cap! Get a piece of wire, custom bend it and finally recover the plastic cap from the gear box. (Hint – make your wire piece long enough that IT won’t get dropped into the tranny and cause more problems that you had to start with.) (Don’t ask me how I know this.)

Step 17: Go to store, get more tranny oil. CAUTION – by this point do not crawl into wife’s Suburban without putting a towel on the seating area to keep YOUR grease from getting on HER clothes. (Don’t ask me how I know this.)

Step 18: Hint – for $2.99, O’Reillys has this neat tube that attaches to oil bottles and does not come off! Suggest you move this Hint to much higher above on your list.

Step 19: Hint – remember to install the drain plug BEFORE putting oil into the oil fill hole. (you guessed it, see # 2 & 3 above)

Step 20: Hint – when you finish filling the oil and the tube is laid down on the floor, some oil will leak out – ditto the # 2 & 3 above remark).

Step 21: Hint - A few paper towels sprayed with solvent will remove the grease ring from a clothes washer. (Don’t ask how I know this, and don’t tell Janelle, OK?)

Step 22: Observation: A mixture of one third Mr. Clean, one third dishwasher soap, and one third hot water will remove MOST of this greasy mess from your garage floor and also cleans cuticles fairly well after about 45 minutes of work.

Step23: Observation: Any car repair that measures paper towel usage in number of “rolls of towels” versus just the number of “towels” might not be considered a complete success!

Step 24: Observation: For people over 50, crawling WAY under the car more times than your age tends to leave you a bit stiff!

Step 25: Observation: Sometimes you are better off just paying Sam the mechanic to do stuff for you!

Step 26: Observation: Excess wine the evening before induces a certain level of poor decision making tendencies the next day. And doesn’t help you feel well after you crawl WAY under the car for the 50th time.

There, now are YOU just all pumped up to try it YOURSELF???  I dare you.  Double dare.

 

 

If you think I made all of this up, here is a photo showing the drain plug (foreground), fill plug (big wrench), plastic plug (on a piece of masking tape) and access plate (small wrench).

 

 

 

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Until they laughed him out of town, author S. R. Wenger was from the Lone Star Region and obviously worked as something other than a mechanic in Houston, Texas.